All those parts will be blue, although I think I will keep the blade guard white, I'm not sure at the moment.
I also removed the magnetic starter box from the base. It's a bit rusty and the badge on it is damaged so I will clean that up and repaint it as well. I will have Jim Kull make a new badge to go back on the unit. The previous owner, an artisan woodworker, told me the saw ran fine although he didn't use it much so I am assuming the starter still works. It is original to this saw as it is an old Square D sold by Allis Chalmers and it's badged Allis Chalmers. It has all the instructions on paper glued to the inside of the cover written by hand (but then copied). It will be nice if it works as is, but I may have to upgrade to a newer NEMA magnetic starter to stay within code. We will see. I will be replacing all the wiring on this saw. The main wire for the plug and the wire to the motor are 10/3 SJOOW portable motor cable.
Here are some pictures of the starter.
As is, once I took the cover off. Very dirty and full of sawdust.
Sanded smooth and cleaned with acetone. ready for primer. I stuffed it really well with shop towels so no parts of it would get paint on them.
The photos below are the starter control instructions that are glued to the inside of the cover.
I will have an entire post on the re-cabling of this saw and the wiring for the end cap switch and the magnetic starter. It will likely be post #4 assuming the 10/3 wire I ordered gets here in the next day or so.
The miter lock handle, the one on the left in the photo below, comes out by tapping the shaft out from the left side when facing the saw from the back. Use a steel punch that is slightly smaller diameter than the shaft.
I was having trouble removing the handle that locks the arm. It is the handle at the top of the column, next to the miter lock handle (the one on the right in the photo). It has a flat head bolt shaft. Once I removed the handle, I wanted to take the bolt out but its really in there tight. The flat head was already damaged so I may just clean the threads and leave it alone. Ruining that bolt trying to loosen it will be an added expense of both time and money.
I sent a message to some people who had done prior GE restorations for advice. The trick here is the arm just rotates off the shaft, but you have to move the arm to the side so the handle can spin all the way around to come off (It spins clockwise)
As I noted before, my handles will all be red on this rebuild. The handles were sanded, media blasted, primed and then painted with two coats of white gloss. Once those dried thoroughly, I taped off the shafts and painted the handles with two coats of red and one coat of clear coat. I think they look good but maybe it's only me.
EDIT: In touching up some of the white parts of the handles, I taped off the red using blue painters tape. When they were dry and I removed the painters tape some of the red paint came off. Why you ask? Because the red was applied over the white (paint should be applied to primer) as I had painted the handles all white first, that was a mistake. If you are going to do handles, or anything else like this, prime the whole handle, two coats, then mask off the color separation after the primer has dried for two days. Paint your first color, three coats. Let the last coat cure for two days and remove your masking, the primer should stay intact. Using SCOTCH tape, as it is less sticky mark your color separation line and then use a Zip-Lock bag with the zip cut off and mask the painted part so that the blue tape sticky side is on the scotch tape you used to mark the color separation line. Then apply three coats of your secondary color. Let the last coat cure for a day and then remove the masking tape, bag and scotch tape. Your first color should remain intact. Let it cure one more day then apply two coats of clear coat enamel.
Blade guard positioning handle, the shaft is white as the guard will be. The funnel came in handy as a stand.
The yoke will be white and the motor is going to be blue, who can see my painting error here?
I replaced the motor bearings and cleaned up the motor, it purrs. Now I just have to get it ready for painting.
The bevel scale was filthy but it cleaned up very nicely and some brass polish made it really look good. Unfortunately it has some bad scarring at the 11 o'clock position, otherwise it is in good shape.
I will be replacing the mounting screws with brass screws (It had crappy SS ones originally)
The elevation mechanism is the next on the list. The handle is fairly easy to remove although I'm not thrilled with the fold up handle design but I see why they did it that way. As with the other handles, this handle will be red. I am going to test the red Plasti-Dip on this handle. If I like how it comes out, I will do all the others. If I don't, then I will re blast it and just paint it.
The screw and gear need serious cleaning as they are very dirty and rusty, as was a lot of this saw. They will be looking good when I finish and they will function better because of it.
I will also be lifting the arm off tomorrow and removing the base and column. All that in Part 5 (Part 4 will be all about re-wiring the saw).
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