DeWalt GE Radial Arm Saw rebuild Part 9, last minute items prior to re-assembly

Another topic before we start; I had brought the motor for this saw to a motor repair shop to replace the bearings and clean out the motor as I was going away and wanted it to be done when I returned. Well, I opened up the motors electrical box to wire up the newly rebuilt magnetic starter and test the motor since I had finished repainting it and WOW WTF, they changed all the wiring! The wires present when I took it apart, known via the pictures I took during disassembly, weren't all there.

Wires as they were upon first cover removal

 They clearly rewired the motor to get it to work since the magnetic starter wasn't there in the shop with them.

See the difference? White wire from original and one ground are missing.

Now I have a lot of work ahead of me. Thankfully I have the other motor from the standard arm GE for reference. Moral of the story, DO THE WORK YOURSELF!

All parts have been repainted and the badges are going on the arm and base today. The arm is going to require re-drilling of the holes for the drive screws as I couldn't get any of them out during disassembly. That shouldn't be too hard but will require some setup to ensure the arm doesn't move during drilling as it is not square.

I have one more coat of clear coat to put on the base and legs but I am going to put the badge on as I like the badges to have one coat of clear on them for protection. I'll spray it after I put the badge on.

The arm is going to require new holes for the badges, it shouldn't be too bad, holes are easy to drill in cast iron.

Important things to remember when drilling holes in metal for drive screws.

1. Mark the holes very carefully. I put double sided tape on the back of the badge, align it and stick it. Then I carefully draw out the hole hole with a thin tipped sharpie.
2. Ensure the item to be drilled is secured so it cannot move during the drilling operation.
3. Drill as straight down as you can, and know what depth you need. Wrap some blue tape around the drill bit so the bottom of the tap is as far as the bit needs to drill down.
4. MAKE sure you drive punch the hole. You CANNOT drill a hole in metal properly without a punch mark to start the bit into.
5. Vacuum all the shavings out of the holes prior to installation.

You can see my hole markings below, they look like holes but they are black marker. Please note that these badges require #2 x 3/16" drive screws. You need a #44 drill bit (.086") to drill the holes for that size drive screw.

And with the new badge installed. (artfully replicated by Jim Kull jimkull@consolidated.net, he is the best.)

 

And the other side which also has the Anti-Friction badge

And the base with its badge installed.

You may recall from Post 8 that I was missing the bolts that serve as the shaft for the rip lock and swivel lock. After days of looking, I ordered a replacement from Bradley Tools. Murphy's law prevailed, and as soon as it arrived I found the other one bagged with the rest of that assembly's hardware in a box on my desk. You can see two sets of those bolts in the second to last picture of this post.

Now I can complete the carriage assembly.

You must remove the bearing nearest the swivel lock as it cannot be installed with the bearing in its slot.

The re-assembly is easy, once you figure out how to dis-assemble it. Taking it apart requires unscrewing the shaft bolt on the left (facing picture), it has the shaft stub coming out into the left side of the swivel lock. You can then unscrew the right side bolt a little and remove the swivel lock. Now the hard part, the right side bolt CANNOT unscrew out to the right. You have to reverse screw it all the way out the left side. Therefore, to reinstall it, you first screw the long shafted bolt, shaft end first, from the left, but screwing it all the way to the right. You must have the rip lock in place while you are doing this (The red knob clamp) .Once you have that all the way to the right you can put the swivel lock in its place with the right side of its center hole in the shaft stub of the right shaft bolt.

Then you screw in the left side shaft bolt and adjust the two bolts so the swivel lock functions correctly. Make sure you put the key side down so it fits in the slot on the yoke when depressed.

Last carriage parts to install.

And the completed carriage and yoke.

I am going to be making some modifications to the table and base for added rigidity. That and more in the next installment. See you then.